Introduction

In recent years the acceleration in decipherment of Maya writing has been dramatic, and scholars can now read the story of these people as they themselves chose to write it.

We know intricate details of the lives, politics, religious rituals, wars and astronomical observations of the all-powerful and colourful figures who were the Maya aristocracy. A vivid picture has emerged of competitive city-states headed by aggressive dynasts regularly at war: blood-letting and human sacrifice at the centre of their religious practice.

Yet despite all this knowledge, the Maya still present mysteries: how could such an obviously civilised society have emerged in the tropical forest, which seemed a particularly hostile setting for human culture?  Who exactly were the builders of the marvellous pyramids and palaces?  Why, at the time of the Spanish conquests in the 16th century had all knowledge of them already been lost. Had some sudden, terrible disaster befallen them?

Much of Guatemala and Belize is still covered in jungle as it would have been in Maya times, making it much easier to imagine the lives of these people, and making our journey adventurous as we dine with the roar of the howler monkeys and pick our way through dense vegetation, with brilliant macaw in the branches above, and sightings of giant iguana and crocodile.

Previous guests have much enjoyed learning the rudiments of decipherment during the progress of the journey, under David's tutelage - an unexpected aspect of the holiday!

Itinerary

Day One
Fly to Guatemala City and transfer to our hotel in Antigua, considered one of the best in the world.

Day Two
All day discovering the beautiful colonial city of Antigua: time for shopping or a coffee in the plaza before the real adventures begin....

Day Three
Drive east, visiting the National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography in Guatemala City, with superb collections including the throne depicting the twin rulers above, en route to Honduras.

Day Four
Copán lies amongst the gentle uplands of Honduras, a city which developed rapidly around AD 450 and boasts monuments with hieroglyphic inscriptions and buildings ornamented with complex religious and political iconography.

Day Five
Quirigua, important Classic Maya city with gigantic carved stelae. Once vassal state to Copán, Quirigua came to dominance when its ruler ‘Cauac Sky’ captured his overlord, ‘18 Rabbit’ and took him home to be sacrificed. Continue to Livingston on the coast and arrive by boat at the mooring on our hotel gardens.

Day Six
A journey inland by motor-launch up the Rio Dulce,  through jungle and mangrove swamps, to Castillo San Felipe. Continue by road to Tikal.

Day Seven
All day in the incomparable Maya metropolis of Tikal, a site occupied continuously from 800BC to AD900. During the height of its prosperity, at least 39 rulers held sway over the city and for long periods, Tikal was the most powerful political force among the Maya. At the beginning of this period the city seems to have been taken by force by armies from Teotihuacan, the great site north of present-day Mexico City, and an alliance between the two centres assured enormous power and prosperity.  This was not seriously challenged until an alliance by other northern cities, headed by Calakmul, invaded and debilitated the city in the 6th century AD. The architecture here is some of the finest we shall see, and the site has been extensively excavated, although much more still lies in the clasp of the jungle.

Day Eight
We stay close enough to Tikal to rise early and climb the highest temples at daybreak to witness the surrounding jungle coming to life. This could be a memory to be treasured for years to come! Optional excursion to the little island town of Flores this afternoon, once site of Maya Tayasai or take time to relax in our very pleasant lake-side hotel with pool.

Day Nine
By boat across the eponymous lake to the city of Yaxhá (= blue-green water), the third greatest Maya city in Guatemala with magnificent vistas from its temple tops of rain-forest and the twin lakes of Yaxhá and Sacnab. The important Maya site of Topoxte occupies five of a cluster of six islands at the west end of the lake. Continue across the border into Belize.

Day Ten
Head further into the forests to the impressive Maya city of Caracol, with its awe-inspiring temples, including the ‘Canaa’ or ‘Sky Palace’, the tallest pyramid in Belize. Caracol was discovered in 1937 and the importance of the site has only recently been recognised.  The core area covers some 38 sq. km and it is estimated that its total population in the 7th century AD could have reached 100,000.  This is made even more astounding as one travels today for a couple of hours through deserted jungle landscapes to reach the site - an exciting journey with an extraordinary goal.

Day Eleven
Smaller vehicles to visit Xunantunich, with its well-known stucco friezes, and then on to the Classic period site of Cahal Pech, by the banks of the Macal River. Continue to Belize City and the collections of the National Museum.

Day Twelve
Explore the Classic period site of Altun Ha; by motor launch to Lamanai (place of the Crocodile).  Even the journey is exhilarating - cruising through luxurious vegetation alive with birds and monkeys.  This must be much the same (though not in a dug-out canoe) as Maya traders experienced, paddling their way to the great city in the jungle. We stay in the delightful eco jungle lodges here and fall asleep amidst the howler monkeys and the noises of the forest.
 

Day Thirteen
Day exploring the remote jungle remains of Lamanai, including the Mask Temple. Free time in our lodge and its gardens.

Day Fourteen
By boat from Lamanai, coach to Belize City airport for flight Houston/London.

Day Fifteen
Arrive in London.

Included

WHAT’S INCLUDED

• Flights Scheduled flights London / Houston / Guatemala City; Belize City / Houston / London
  Transfers private coach provided to coincide with group flights
• Local Travel Private a/c coach; off-road vehicles; motor launch
• Meals All meals included except lunch Day 14; drinks (except water) are not included
• Guide Lecturer Not to be confused with "guest lecturers"!  The guide lecturer will be with you from breakfast to supper, and probably even a drink in the bar afterwards.  There is the occasional site where they may not be allowed to guide because of local regulations (we normally manage to circumnavigate these) but otherwise the guides are just that.  They will have been chosen because of specialist knowledge and their ability to communicate and interest you.  After 22 years of making tours worldwide, we are highly appreciative of the attributes of a good guide, and intensely critical of people who do not possess them.  If you would like to know more about David Drew, please click his name.
• Tour Manager We never know how best to call the very special people whom we choose to accompany you on your tour.  They are usually employed in this capacity only by us, and have been trained to do things in the Andante way - unobtrusive, friendly and quietly efficient.
• Local Guide
• Fieldnotes written for the tour
• Entry & tips Entry to all sites in programme; tips included.

Hotels

2 nights in a delightful hotel in Antigua, possibly amongst the best in the world;

2 nights in Copán, in a very attractive hotel with pool;

1 night in Livingston, plain and comfortable with panoramic views over the estuary and good pool;

3 nights in an extremely comfortable hotel near Tikal;

2 nights in a good hotel in San Ignacio;

1 night in Belize City;

2 nights in jungle eco-lodge, Lamanai.

Note: Some of these hotels are really outstanding, with jungle lodges chosen to give a very authentic experience

Map

Comments

What Did You Enjoy Most About This Tour?

Virtually all – the archaeology, the nature, the sights, the boat trips. Guest, March 2008

The archaeology, the exotic colourful flora and fauna, the charming friendly people, the howler monkeys (at 6am). Guest, March 2008

The sites were well chosen and the river trips added some variety so it wasn’t just one set of pyramids after another.  I enjoyed having the expert input from David Drew and the excellent care from Stasha. Guest, March 2008

The opportunity to visit some of the most remote and interesting places that I have seen, all in relative comfort. Guest, March 2008

Climbing temples & pyramids in the jungle and joining the toucans, parrots and monkeys in the canopy.  The boat ride on New River to Lamanai and its fascinating temples set in the jungle.  Learning about the Maya civilisations and acquiring the beginnings of being able to recognise date, calendar and place glyphs. Guest, February / March 2006

I read about the mysterious “peaceful” Mayan “astronomer priests” in my late teens (ca 1960) when the sites were only accessible by mule or light aircraft.  I feel very privileged to have now seen so much and gained so much up to the minute information on the Maya – almost worth getting old for! Guest, February / March 2006

Reading List

This list is no more than a guide to some books that you may find useful to read in advance of the tour. Talks given on the tour will attempt to fill in the background to what we are seeing, so no prior knowledge or pre-tour cramming is expected or needed. In many cases, we expect that you will find some of these books even more interesting and useful to read once the tour is over.

General Introductions to the Maya

Claude Baudez & Sydney Picasso, Lost Cities of the Maya, Thames & Hudson. New Horizons Series (1992). A very reasonably priced, pocket-sized volume which offers a brief history of Maya discovery accompanied by many colourful and unusual illustrations.

Michael Coe, The Maya, Thames & Hudson (7^th Edition 2005). Long recognised as the standard introductory archaeological survey. Recently revised and well illustrated with photos, line drawings and plans.

Michael Coe, Breaking the Maya Code, Thames & Hudson (1992)/ Penguin (1994). Very readable account of the history of the decipherment of Maya writing. Also provides good background on the Maya in general.

David Drew, The Lost Chronicles of the Maya Kings, Weidenfeld & Nicolson (1999)/ Phoenix pbk. (2000, reprinted Jan 2006). Despite its somewhat misleading title, a comprehensive and well-received overview. Includes a sizeable opening section on the colourful careers of the early explorers and archaeologists. Also follows the Maya story into modern times.

Nikolai Grube, Maya. Divine Kings of the Rain Forest, Konemann, Cologne, Germany (2000). A very bulky volume, but an excellent collection of essays by leading specialists about the Maya from ancient into modern times. Recently remaindered and still to be found in second-hand and cut-price bookshops.

Jeremy Sabloff, The New Archaeology and the Ancient Maya, Scientific American Library (1990). Good review of how archaeologists’ approaches to the Maya have changed over the years.

Robert Sharer, The Ancient Maya, Stamford University Press (6th Edition 2005). Much the most exhaustive coverage, this book has by now become a classic, the archaeology student’s Maya bible. But it is an enormous, encyclopaedic volume and is perhaps too detailed for the general reader.

Mary Ellen Miller, The Art of Mesoamerica, from Olmec to Aztec, Thames & Hudson (3^rd Edition 2001). Especially good in putting the Maya in context and relating them to the other peoples of Mesoamerica.

More Specialised Studies

Art, Archaeology and Maya History

Michael Coe and Justin Kerr, The Art of the Maya Scribe, Thames & Hudson (1997). Beautifully illustrated volume on Maya writing and the production of the ancient books.

Michael Coe and Mark Van Stone, How to Read Maya Glyphs, Thames & Hudson (2001). Very good introduction to Maya hieroglyphs and how you read them.

William Fash, Scribes, Warriors & Kings, Thames & Hudson (1991). The most thorough study of Copan to date.

Ian Graham, Alfred Maudslay and the Maya, British Museum Press (2001). The story of thegreat British explorer of the Maya, whose published photographs and drawings, and his plaster casts of Maya monuments and hieroglyphs, have been of enormous value to Maya studies. The first man to document Tikal in any detail.

Peter D. Harrison, The Lords of Tikal, Thames & Hudson (1999). The most detailed coverage yet of Tikal, in the ‘New Aspects of Antiquity’ series.

Grant D. Jones, The Conquest of the Last Maya Kingdom, Stanford Univ. Press (1998). The fascinating story of the Maya kingdom of Tayasal, around Lake Flores south of Tikal, which survived as an independent tiny state until 1697. Now in paperback. Very detailed but extremely well written.

Simon Martin & Nikolai Grube, Chronicle of the Maya Kings and Queens, Thames & Hudson (2000). A first-rate, truly landmark volume in Maya studies, detailing all that is known to date of the history of individual Maya cities of the Classic period and their ruling dynasties. The work of two of the leading lights in the decipherment of Maya hieroglyphs and recognised authorities on Maya political history, the Englishman Martin and the German Grube.

Mary Ellen Miller, Maya Art & Architecture, Thames & Hudson (1999). Very good value, readable short introduction by the foremost authority on Maya art.

Mary Ellen Miller and Simon Martin, Courtly Art of the Ancient Maya, Thames & Hudson (2004, now in paperback). A truly beautiful large format volume. Not just a catalogue but published to accompany an exhibition that toured the USA in 2004. Excellent introduction to Maya art, architecture and the functioning of the topmost level of Maya society. Highly recommended.

Linda Schele and David Freidel, A Forest of Kings, Morrow, New York (1990). Individual histories of some of the major Maya kingdoms. Attractively speculative, occasionally fictionalised. Not approved of by many purist archaeologists, and thirteen years on can be seen to be wide of the mark on many issues, but a very good read none the less.

Linda Schele and Peter Mathews, The Code of Kings, Scribners, New York (1998). Difficult to get hold of, but engrossing examination of seven of the architectural wonders of the Maya world and the thought processes behind their construction. Fascinating combination of archaeology, art history and the fruits of hieroglyphic decipherment.

Linda Schele and Mary Miller, The Blood of Kings, Thames & Hudson (1992). An exhibition catalogue with extensive text. A key publication in the development of Maya studies since it brought together for the first time new thought on Maya art, religion and the institution of Maya kingship, based on the progress in decipherment of the previous decade. In essence, this volume, providing detailed evidence for the central role of blood-letting and rites of human sacrifice, scotched forever the idea of the Maya as a peace-loving society of star-gazing priests and peasant farmers.

Peter Schmidt, Mercedes de la Garza and Enrique Nalda, Maya Civilization, Thames & Hudson (1998). Originally the catalogue of a major Maya exhibition held in 1998 in Venice (and published in Italy by Bompiani with the title ‘Maya’), it includes a fine range of essays on most aspects of ancient Maya culture. A lavishly produced, expensive volume with magnificent photographs.

Hugh Thomas, The Conquest of Mexico, Hutchinson (1993), Pimlico pbk. (1994). The definitive account of the Spanish conquest.  

David Webster, The Fall of the Ancient Maya, Thames & Hudson (2002). Excellent and highly readable account of the downfall of the Classic Maya cities.

Religion and Mythology

David Freidel, Linda Schele and Joy Parker, Maya Cosmos, Morrow New York (1993). An intriguing investigation of the nature of Maya religion and their vision of the world, stressing continuities between past and present.

Mary Miller and Karl Taube, The Gods and Symbols of Ancient Mexico and the Maya, Thames & Hudson (1992)

Karl Taube, Aztec and Maya Myths, British Museum Publications (1993).

Both of the above are good introductions to Maya religion and also demonstrate how much of the essentials of Maya thought have survived into modern times.

Dennis Tedlock (Ed.), Popol Vuh, Simon & Schuster, New York (1985). Maya myth and history, written down in evocative, poetic form by Maya authors, using the Latin alphabet, soon after the Spanish conquest. Combined with advances in art history and decipherment, study of the Popol Vuh has provided important insights into ancient Maya thought.  

Belize

Apart from papers in archaeological journals, there has been very little published coverage of Belize’s Maya archaeology. All that one can recommend is to look for references to important Belizean sites such as Lamanai, Caracol and Altun Ha in the more general introductions mentioned above. You can then consult their bibliographies if you want to go further and read the more specialist literature. The principal archaeologists who have been associated with Belizean sites in recent years are – Arlen and Diane Chase at Caracol, David Pendergast and Elizabeth Graham at Lamanai and Altun Ha and Norman Hammond, who has worked in Belize and written extensively on Belizean archaeology over a long period of time.

There is one good recent review of archaeology in the Belize Valley, but it is very hard to find anywhere but specialist libraries. This is:

Diane and Arlen Chase (Eds) The Ancient Maya of the Belize Valley University of Florida 2003

There is also the following archaeological guide to Central America, which includes a good amount of material on Belize. It is out of print and very hard to find, but heartily recommended:

Joyce Kelly, An Archaeological Guide to Northern Central America, Univ. of Oklahoma Press 1996

It is also worth using the internet. Best to simply put the names of the major sites into your search engine. Lamanai and Caracol are very worthwhile pursuing in this way since both have archaeological projects with their own web-sites, put together by Elizabeth Graham and the Chases respectively.

Travel Writing

John Lloyd Stephens, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan (1841) and Incidents of Travel in Yucatan (1843). Both of these classic publications (each of two volumes) have been reprinted by Dover Reprints. Beautifully written and with marvellous illustrations by Stephens’ English travelling companion Frederick Catherwood. A joy to read.   

Ronald Wright, Time Among the Maya, Bodley Head (1989) (since published in paperback). Excellent modern travel book, full of historical insight and a sympathetic account of the modern Maya.

National Geographic Magazine

National Geographic have supported a great deal of Maya archaeology in recent times and for those who take it regularly or have access to it in libraries, it is worthwhile looking up a few back numbers. In particular, look out for October 1989, much of which is devoted to the Maya and which includes a good archaeological map of the region, and the December 1997 issue, with a good article on Copan in Honduras.

Guide Books

Amongst the best are:
The Rough Guide to Belize.  (2007) Peter Eltringham, Ian Stewart, Dominique Young

The Rough Guide to Guatemala. (2009) Iain Stewart. On the ball with the archaeology and modern Maya culture.

The Footprints Guatemala Handbook. 2002 Claire Boobyer

The Footprint Handbook: Mexico and Central America 2003 (2002)

I think these may be replaced by

Belize, Guatemala & Southern Mexico

http://www.footprintbooks.com/guidebooks/latinamerica.cfm?ccs=77&cs=264

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