Andante Travels

Introduction

Geographically, and until recently, also culturally isolated through a post-war Stalinist regime, Albania is unlike any other European country.

Homeric landscapes, for the most part untouched by modern life, hold ruinous Classical cities which once vied in splendour with their neighbours in Greece and Italy. Greek coastal colonisation at Apollonia and Dyrrachium provided new stimulus to the native population, and recent excavations of their Illyrian hilltop cities, such as Byllis, have revealed the successful absorption of Hellenistic architectual ideas in their planned layout.

Oliver Gilkes , Andante’s archaeologist guide, has witnessed at first hand how the country has struggled to assert its new-found freedom during his 15 years of excavating and working here. His observations make fascinating listening, and add interest and depth to our study of this land in ancient times.

More varieties of wild flowers grow here than anywhere else in Europe, and the high mountains provide one of the last refuges of bears and wolves.

As modern Europe strengthens its hold, the remnants of the past will vanish in this country which has awoken after 50 years of isolation So we suggest you visit now, and take advantage of a superb guide; three of what we consider the best hotels (in a country where they are not always easy to find) and a glorious lack of modern development in the countryside and along the coast.

“Albania’s adverse reputation is unfounded. It is clear that this is a country with a huge history undergoing very rapid change, so you were correct to advise seeing it now. The Andante team was absolutely first class in showing us this spectacular and unknown country”

Itinerary

Day One 
Arrive in Tirana and drive our modern hotel right in the centre of the city.

Day Two 
Full day investigating the sites of the capital Tirana. This is a city reinventing itself, with unpaved roads and once austere, but now brightly painted, tenement blocks next to modern glass and steel skyscrapers. We visit the Archaeological Museum, National Historical Museum, Etham Bey Mosque and National Gallery. 

Day Three 
Drive to Apollonia, founded by the Corinthians in 588 BC, one of the largest cities on the Adriatic, the ruins of which cover an enormous area. This was one of Julius Caesar’s bases against Pompey. Augustus, who was studying here at the time of Caesar’s assassination, rewarded it by granting it autonomy. Today the city lies romantically covered by waving corn with grassy banks hinting at what is still to be uncovered.

Day Four 
Explore the attractive medieval town of Berat, situated on a hill dominating the River Osum and its gorge. The lower city along the riversides was the preserve of the Muslim inhabitants, while by agreement the Christians held the citadel, so there are both Byzantine Churches and Mosques to visit, as well as the Onufri Museum. Whilst the citadel of Berat is a most beautiful medieval centre with wide views over the surrounding countryside, the city below provides an interesting and accessible way of discovering modern Albania. Our hotel here is right in the centre and provides a taste of the remains of the communist era - an interesting insight.

Day Five 
An exciting day in 4x4’s or minibuses to visit the remote site of Byllis, sited on a commanding promontary overlooking the Vjose River valley with possibilities for landscape archaeology enroute. Continue to our Italian-owned and stylish hotel on the coast at Saranda.

Day Six
Picturesque drive to spend all day at Butrint on a wooded hillside at the head of a lake with views to Corfu. Butrint is both beautiful and unusual, probably Albania’s best-known and most spectacular site, and the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in the country. The hilltop was inhabited from the 7th-6th century BC, became a prosperous Roman town, and survived into the Middle Ages. Oliver has been working for 15 years with the Butrint Foundation project.

Day Seven 
A trip over the mountains from Saranda to the Gjirokastra valley, stopping at Mesopotam to see the Medieval monastery, with its elaborate Byzantine church en route to Gjirokastra. This is a unique place recognised in 2004 by the granting of UNESCO World Heritage status. Principal among its monuments are the great fortress that dominates the city and the unique series of late Ottoman houses that festoon the steep slopes of the mountainside. The grey limestone of the mountain and the grey stone of the city walls combine to produce the town’s characteristic appearance, which may have given rise to its name, the ‘Silver City’. A mountain stronghold, it is dramatically set amidst the limestone peaks.

Day Eight
Excursion to Durres, Albania’s chief port and for many years the largest town in the country. This is an unattractive place which has suffered from a rash of illegal development and under-investment. However, as ancient Epidamnos, and the starting point of the Via Egnatia, it developed as an important trade and communication centre. The chief surviving structure is the 2nd century amphitheatre (largest in the Balkans). Nearby recent excavations have uncovered a large circular colonnaded piazza, paved with marble. This extraordinary monument had a circular pavement with shops and booths behind the colonnade. This is a set piece of late antique civic architecture similar to the great circular fora of Constantinople. From a distance we can see the exterior of King Zog’s palace. Continue to Petrella Castle, the stronghold of Skanderbeg, Albania’s national hero, then on to Tirana.

Day Nine 
Free morning in Tirana. Afternoon to Kruja, the last bastion of Christianity against the Ottoman Turks and now a rather charming town set in beautiful countryside. The citadel walls, 800 m long, surround a sheer-sided rocky plateau, with views westwards over the plain. The Skanderbeg Museum here is a triumph of political museology, showing in concrete form the accepted story of Albania’s medival genesis. 
Time for some last-minute present-buying in the colourful Bazaar and little shops. Continue to airport for evening flight to London.

Included

WHAT’S INCLUDED

• Flights Scheduled flights from London to Tirana.
• Local Travel Private a/c coach; probably also off-road vehicles/minibuses to Byllis.
• Meals All meals included except lunch and dinner day 9 (dinners with wine & water)
• Guide Lecturer Not to be confused with "guest lecturers"! The guide lecturer will be with you from breakfast to supper, and probably even a drink in the bar afterwards. There is the occasional site where they may not be allowed to guide because of local regulations (we normally manage to circumnavigate these) but otherwise the guides are just that. They will have been chosen because of specialist knowledge and their ability to communicate and interest you. After 22 years of making tours worldwide, we are highly appreciative of the attributes of a good guide, and intensely critical of people who do not possess them. If you would like to know more aboutOliver Gilkes , please click his name.
• Tour Manager We never know how best to call the very special people whom we choose to accompany you on your tour. They are usually employed in this capacity only by us, and have been trained to do things in the Andante way - unobtrusive, friendly and quietly efficient.
• Local Guide
• Fieldnotes written for the tour.
• Entry to all sites in programme.
• Tips included.

Flights & Visa

Airline: BA
BA2648 London Gatwick / Tirana 16:50 / 12:45
BA2649 Tirana / London Gatwick 21:40 / 23:40

Please note these flights are an indication of what the flights are likely to be. Please contact the office for exact details.

Visa and Passport Requirements (for British passport holders only)*

No visa required.

Note: Passports must be valid for at least six months.

Hotels

2 + 2 nights in a new (1995) highrise 4* hotel in the middle of Tirana; 
2 nights in a communist era 2* hotel in Berat with comfortable although austere accommodation;
2 nights in a smart 5* hotel by the sea in Saranda with lovely pool (if warm enough to be open). 

Please remember that Albania is only gradually becoming used to the idea of service and tourism and the hotel experience, whilst mostly well-meaning and in part even luxuriously equipped, is often oddly administered. All adds to the fun...

Map

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Testimonials

What Did You Enjoy Most About This Tour?

"An unforgettable insight into a virtually unknown country before mass tourism arrives; seeing extraordinary survivals from every era of its turbulent history, all explained with erudition and humour by Oliver; finally, the company of like-minded and stimulating travelling companions."

"A good mix of the sites seen; lovely, huge landscapes; fascinating history of a little known country."

"Some superb archaeology- Apollonia was a particular favourite. Do emphasise the superb scenery in the south of Albania in the brochure. I was also full of admiration for the Albanian people. Oliver has unrivalled knowledge, a great capacity to teach and a great commitment to Albania."

"A life-long ambition of mine was achieved by seeing Butrint- not disappointed."

"Apollonia and Byllis were fabulous too- geographical sites very impressive- plains etc- hinterland beckoned!"

"A very well organised holiday to a beautiful new country in sunny weather. Our guide's knowledge of the sites made it unique."

Reading List

This list is no more than a guide to some books that you may find useful to read in advance of the tour. Talks given on the tour will attempt to fill in the background to what we are seeing, so no prior knowledge or pre-tour cramming is expected or needed. In many cases, we expect that you will find some of these books even more interesting and useful to read once the tour is over.

General Guide Books:

There are few good general guides in English. Many were written under the regime and are now hopelessly out of date, for example Philip Ward's Guide to Albania, although still to be found on sale. There are two, however, which are, with some reservations, not too bad.

Robert Carver (1998) The Accursed Mountains (This is a strange book. Carver provides an overly bleak view of Albania and many of his comments are simply not accurate, even considering that it describes a journey in 1996. However, it is very readable and provides a modern take on the incomprehension with which many people first meet Albania.)

Gillian Gloyer (2006) The Bradt Guide Albania. An excellent guide to the country, the best and most up to date currently available in English, though it does have some odd lapses and gaps. Highly recommended.

James Pettifer (1996) Blue Guide: Albania. The latest edition (updated 1996) of the Blue Guide series which traditionally have a strong reputation to maintain. This is provides very full coverage, although there are still many inaccuracies and some misleading information.

Linda White (1994) An Albanian Journal and Guide. This guide is interesting as it is done as a sketch of the country before and after the fall of the communist regime. It is now a little dated as things have changed a lot in the past 9 years.

Histories:

Jason Tomes (2003, pbk 2007) King Zog, self-made monarch of Albania. Excellent study of 1930's Albania and its peculiar monarch.

Miranda Vickers (1995) The Albanians: A Modern History. The best short history of Albania currently available, providing insights into its modern condition. Highly recommended.

Donald Nicol (1993) The Last Centuries of Byzantium. A general account of the closing years of the Byzantine Empire with a lot of information about the Balkans and the origins of Albania. Recommended.

John Wilkes The Illyrians. A modern survey of this ancient people who figure very strongly in the concept of modern Albania. Recommended.

Katherine Fleming (1999) The Muslim Bonaparte: Diplomacy and Orientalism in Ali Pashas Greece. Good modern study of the enigmatic Ali Pasha.

Other works:

Lord Byron Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. Available in many editions, Byron's great poem is at least partly auto-biographical, recounting his meeting with Ali Pasha at Tepelene. Recommended.

Edith Durham (1908 - but available in Phoenix Press) High Albania

Richard Hodges (2006) Eternal Butrint Periplus Books

Edward Lear (1847 - but available in a modern paperback edition) Diary of a Landscape Painter in Greece and Epirus. Lear was one of the early travellers in the area of Albania who has left his impressions of the country. Recommended.

Enver Hoxha (1986) The Artful Albanian. A drastically edited version of Hoxha's 40 volume memoirs. It can be heavy going but it is an interesting insight into the complicated personality of the ex-head of the Party of Labour of Albania. Recommended.

Tom Winnifrith (2002) Badlands Borderlands: A History of Southern Albania/Northern Epirus.

David Smiley (1994) Irregular Regular. A personalised account of the activities of the Special Operations Executive in Albania during the war.

For the enthusiastic there are also several ancient authors who provide information on the area. The following are all available in Penguin Classics:

Caesar The Civil War

Cicero Letters to Atticus and Letters to his Friends

Anna Commena The Alexiad

Livy Rome and the Mediterranean

Polybius The Rise of the Roman Empire

Slightly more difficult to acquire are the works of early travellers, especially William Martin Leake, François Pouqueville (in French), Thomas Smart Hughes, and Henry Tozer. However they do repay the effort (especially Leake and Hughes) providing vivid accounts of travelling in 19th century Albania. They can be acquired as new paperbacks from Elibron classics at http://www.elibron.com/english/

Maps:

Bartholomew publish a European Travel Map of Albania, scale 1:450,000, though beware, there are no accurate maps of Albania's roads generally available.

Booking