Andante Travels

Introduction

The explosive eruption of Vesuvius in AD79 devastated lives and livelihoods throughout the Bay of Naples. It also uniquely preserved for posterity the evidence of those lives - of ordinary people who were caught in an extraordinary disaster.

Instead of being tidied away, worn out, disposed of, recycled or built over, their private possessions, dwellings and even their mortal remains have been arrested and preserved at one particular moment to provide a snapshot of life nearly 2000 years ago.

Pompeii and Herculaneum are the most famous of the towns destroyed in AD79, but the same fate befell many other busy towns lining the bay, as well as simple farms on the fertile slopes of the mountain and holiday villas of the rich and famous. 

Our tour provides the opportunity to see the best examples of Roman culture from a time when the relatively new Roman Empire was at its most vigorous, with a physically and socially mobile population expressing wealth and status in an astonishing variety of ways.  

For three hundred years, since excavations began at the beginning of the 18th century, a picture of how people lived and died here has been slowly emerging. The story of these excavations is the history of archaeology itself, evolving from simply retrieving artefacts as curiosities and treasures, to minute study of organic remains, the pathology of bodies, and detailed surveys of buildings and their decorations. 

Itinerary

day one
Group flights London to Naples or meet our private coach at Naples airport and drive to our hotel.

day two

Private coach south to spend the day at the Greek, Lucanian and Roman colony of Poseidonia/Paestum. There are a number of trattorie and snack-bars beside the site which can provide lunch.

This site provides a textbook introduction to the early chronology of the region - a Greek colony which
was taken over by the native Lucanians, before becoming a Latin colony and then a Roman town. In its Greek phase it boasted three impressive Doric temples which continued to be venerated throughout the Roman period and indeed one became an early Christian church. All three still stand, and are amongst the best-preserved in the Mediterranean world. The areas between them are filled with the trappings of a Roman town - forum, amphitheatre, public offices, shops and houses. The finds in the site museum here include famous carved temple metopes (panels) from a nearby sanctuary to Hera and remarkable painted Greek and Lucanian tombs. We include a visit to this Heraion and small site museum.

day three

Walk from hotel into the ancient city of Pompeii (by train from Vico in May and October), and spend the whole day on foot here. Lunch can be bought from a cafeteria beside the forum, or there is a picnic site just outside the walls. About two-thirds of the 66ha town has been excavated, including the complete wall circuit, and no other site so vividly illustrates the reality and dimensions of a Roman town. Buildings still stand which were damaged by a devastating earthquake in AD62, before being shaken and buried by events in August AD79 and then excavated bit by bit from 1748 onwards. The site represents a unique mix of incredible preservation and lost opportunities, tangible tragedy and vibrant everyday life.

Wall-paintings, stucco, mosaics, street graffiti and corner fountains still survive in a remarkably good state. Stroll from the amphitheatre to the forum, taking in baths, shops, bars, fullers’ premises en route, visit private houses to admire the decor, take in the view from the top of the walls, admire the ancestors’ tombs and finish at the wealthy suburban Villa of the Mysteries. Walk (or train) back to our hotel to digest what you have seen!

day four 
By Circumvesuviana railway train to Naples; metro to National Museum, which is the treasure-house of finds from the region. Free afternoon to explore Naples, which could include underground excavations at San Paolo and San Lorenzo di Maggiore, with access to the Roman theatre; some of the many historic churches; the Capodimonte art gallery (details of options will be provided) - go shopping, relax in the hotel, or use the railway line to explore further afield.

day five
By Circumvesuviana railway train to Herculaneum, where the deep covering of volcanic mud has made excavation much more difficult, but has miraculously preserved wooden structures such as folding doors, staircases and shelves - the latter even had some foodstuffs still sitting on them. Free afternoon to continue exploring the site alone, or perhaps take the local bus to climb Vesuvius (only the last bit need be on foot!).

day six
By Circumvesuviana railway train to the opulent Roman villa at Oplontis, buried by both ash and mud. Excavated relatively recently (since 1960), its remarkable wall-paintings have been left in situ. Free afternoon - take the railway to return to the hotel, enjoy further independent exploration of Pompeii or visit another site such as Stabiae.

day seven
Private coach to Naples Airport, to take group flights home or to wait for your own flight - or continue your holiday independently.

NB In January Days 2 & 3 and Days 4 & 5 are transposed.

Included

WHAT’S INCLUDED

• Flights scheduled flights with British Airways from Gatwick to Naples or arrange your own flights
• Transfers private coach provided to coincide with group flights
• Local Travel to all sites in programme, either by private coach, Circumvesuviana Railway, and walking!
• Guide Lecturer (also local guides where these are compulsory) Not to be confused with "guest lecturers"!  The guide lecturer will be with you from breakfast to supper, and probably even a drink in the bar afterwards.  There is the occasional site where they may not be allowed to guide because of local regulations (we normally manage to circumnavigate these) but otherwise the guides are just that.  They will have been chosen because of specialist knowledge and their ability to communicate and interest you.  After 22 years of making tours worldwide, we are highly appreciative of the attributes of a good guide, and intensely critical of people who do not possess them.  If you would like to know more about Dr Denise Allen or Dr Eireann Marshall please click their name.

• Fieldnotes written for the tour
• Entry Entry to all sites in programme

You Arrange

• Flights if you prefer. It may suit you better, and you may get a good deal, on flights from your local airport - see price without flights above.
• Meals (except breakfast) - the hotel is a short distance from shops (for packed lunches) - alternatively we ensure that there is a choice of trattorie/ pizzerie at lunch-time. For evening meals there is plenty of choice in the modern town of  Pompeii / Vico Equense

Flights & Visa

Airline: BA 
January departure:   
BA2606        London Gatwick/ Naples             07:30/ 11:15
BA2607        Naples / London Gatwick            12:00/ 13:50

May departure:
BA2610        London Gatwick/ Naples             10:55/ 14:35
BA2611        Naples / London Gatwick            15:20/ 17:05

October departure: details to be confirmed
Please note these flights are an indication of what the flights are likely to be. Please contact the office for exact details

Visa and Passport Requirements (for British passport holders only)

Note: Passport must be valid for 3 months on entry into Italy.

Hotels

January departure: a simple but comfortable hotel just outside the walls of Pompeii; close to the railway station, and the main square of the modern town.

May & October departures: 
Delightful little hotel (pictured left) with good outdoor pool, on the coast at Vico Equense - good, direct access via the circumvesuviana train (roads here rather tricky!)

Map

Comments

What Did You Enjoy Most About This Tour?

The opportunity to use local transport, to opt in or opt out of the tour arrangements when it suited me, and to have a choice of venue and price at lunch and dinner. In short: freedom of choice. Needless to say; all the sites we visited were wonderful and exciting- a great experience.

A very good trip- full marks all round!

Seeing as much as possible in the time available while having some time for private visits. One advantage provided was access to closed buildings and difficult to access sites.

Two things really- the way in which Tony O'Connor brought the sites to life and also the companionship of the rest of the group- such a nice, friendly group- being a ‘first-timer' I thought I might feel out of it, but this was never the case.

Another fabulous holiday experience. Good programme made alive by Eireann.

1)      Pompeii - absolutely fantastic and so much better with an expert guide - though I also enjoyed going back on the last day and seeing it again by myself.  2) Free time - it was great to be able to visit Underground Naples and Vesuvius and I appreciated the fact that Denise helped to arrange these activities for those who wanted them.  3) Boscoreale - fascinating insights into everyday Roman life.  4) The Bare Bone format gave just the right balance of organised and free time - I enjoyed having some time to myself and the freedom to eat out where I chose but it was also good to have the option of eating with the group in the evenings.

This holiday more than lived up to my expectations. Thank you for the great holiday; it was probably the best ever.

I loved walking the streets of Pompeii.  Finding the water reservoir from which water flowed throughout Pompeii, one of the water towers and lead pipes conveying the water to some of the most luxurious villas, made me feel life continued there.  I also enjoyed the lack of hype throughout.

Reading List

This list is no more than a guide to some books that you may find useful to read in advance of the tour. No prior knowledge or pre-tour cramming is expected or needed. In many cases, we expect that you will find some of these books even more interesting and useful to read once the tour is over.

Guide Lecturer's Choice: (if you only want to read one or two books)

Ling, Roger (Tempus 2005) Pompeii - History, Life and Afterlife. Excellent summary of all the latest evidence from Pompeii, presented as a chronological survey of the town.

Harris, R. (2003) Pompeii. Hutchinson.  An impressive and historically well-researched novel.

New Books

Beard, Mary The Life of a Roman Town (Profile Books September 2008) - what sort of a town was Pompeii? This book tries to make sense of the remains, with headings like Bad Breath, Intestinal Parasites, Performing Monkeys, One-Way Streets, Water shortages......a new and interesting approach!

Berry, Joanne The Complete Pompeii (Thames and Hudson Jan 2008). Readable, well-informed book which brings the reader up to date with thoughts about Pompeii, and results of recent research and excavations.

Easy Reads:

Amery, C. & Curran Jr, B. The Lost World of Pompeii (Frances Lincoln 2002)

Butterworth, A. & Laurence, R. (2005) Pompeii: The Living City. - written by an academic historian (one of Andante's Guide Lecturers!) and a dramatist, using real individuals known from texts and inscriptions to build a compelling portrait of the city during its last 25 years.

Connolly, P.  (1979) Pompeii. Aimed at children, but superbly researched reconstructions.

Deiss, J.J.  (1987) Herculaneum. Good introduction to the story of the eruption, and the rediscovery of the Roman towns.

Etienne, R. (1992) Pompeii: the day a city died. Thames & Hudson.  Beautifully produced with remarkable collection of illustrations.

Grant, M. (1971) Cities of Vesuvius. Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London.

Potter, T. (1987) Roman Italy. British Museum Publications, London.  Best general background to the area available.   Now out of print but available through Amazon.com.

More Detailed Accounts:

Claridge, A. & Ward-Perkins, J. (1976) Pompeii AD 79. Royal Academy Exhibition Catalogue.  Very good general introduction, and widely available in second hand bookshops.

Mau, A.  (1904) Pompeii, its life and art. Still by far the best synthesis in English.

Dobbins, J.J.  and Foss, P.W.  (eds.), The World of Pompeii, London, Routledge, 2007 - With up-to date accounts by different experts on of numerous aspects of Pompeii, Herculaneum and the surrounding countryside.

An extensive range of publications can be bought at the bookshop at Pompeii and other major sites. A particularly good group are published by the Soprintendenza Archaeologica di Pompeii and include such titles as ‘Around the Walls of Pompeii; Herculaneum, The Excavations, local history and surroundings'.

Social & Economic History:

Laurence, R.  (1994) Roman Pompeii: space and society.

Wallace-Hadrill, A.F.  (1994) Houses and Society in Pompeii and Herculaneum

Jongman, W. (1988) The Economy and Society of Pompeii AD79

Cornell, T. & Lomas, K. (1995) Urban Society in Roman Italy

Laurence, R. & Wallace-Hadrill, A.F. (1996) Domestic Space in the Roman World

Zanker, P. Pompeii: Public and Private Life. Harvard University Press.

Art & Architecture:

Richardson, L.  (1997) Pompeii - an architectural history. The John Hopkins University Press (available in paperback..  "... tells the story of the city and its buildings."

Clarke, J.R.  (1990) The Houses of Roman Italy 100BC - AD250

Jashemski, W.  (1979 & 1994) The Gardens of Pompeii (Vol 2 sells at the staggering price of $250).

Gazda. E.K.  (1991) Roman Art in the Private Sphere

Ling, R.  (1991) Roman Painting

Pedley, J.G. (1990) Paestum: Greeks and Romans in Southern Italy

History of the Excavations:

Parslow, C C (1998) Rediscovering Antiquity - Karl Weber and the Excavation of Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabiae. (Cambridge University Press)

Ancient Sources on Pompeii:

Cooley, A.E. & M.G.L. (2004) Pompeii: A Sourcebook. A compilation of the ancient references to Pompeii, including many of the graffiti, advertisements, and scribbled notices found on the walls of the city itself. (Routledge).

Natural History:

Jonsson, L.  (1992) Birds of Europe with North Africa and the Middle East. Christopher Helm.  Expensive but essential according to our experts.

Polunin, O. & Huxley, A. (1965) Flowers of the Mediterranean. Chatto & Windus (reprinted 1994),

Guide Books:

Pauls, M. & Facaros, D. (2007) Cadogan Guide to Bay of Naples & Southern Italy.  Very successful guide, highly enjoyable, readable information.

Maps:

Campania and Basilicata, 1:200,000 scale, Italian Touring Club.

Amalfi Coast, Kompass Map No. 682

Travel books

We recommend to you a publishing company with a mission to keep the classic works of travel literature in print. Eland and Sickle Moon Books produce an excellent catalogue of travellers' literature, old and new.

+44 (0) 20 7833 0762 - www.travelbooks.co.uk This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Archaeology books

Oxbow Books, based in Oxford, are suppliers of probably the biggest range of archaeology and history books. They produce a quarterly catalogue, and can be contacted on

+44 (0)1865 241249 - www.oxbowbooks.com This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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